Trying to get an unbiased opinion

[Daveo]

I want a big block t-maxx. I know the pitfalls, I know the expense involved, and i know that i should just go buy a savage. But I want a big block t-maxx. So that being said, I would ike an unbiased opinion about how to go about doing this. Do I have to go with all UE parts or could I use a different conversion? How about drive train, I already have an OTB 2 speed and HCR aluminum drive gears so I think my tranny is ok but what about Diffs? Do I need 1/8th scale diffs or will the stock diffs with aluminum cases and cups work ok? Please help, all the forums are crawling with UE heads who worship at the temple of Robin.

thanks

Daveo

[pottsgroverc]

If you keep stock shafts and not dogbones, and you keep your slipper adjusted more to the loose side, you should be fine. It is not just about power, but weight as well. If you have a lot of aluminum, then you could have a problem.

[Taqrin]

One thing you may come across when building a big block T is finding a bell that matches your motor and the T's spur grear. Most BB motors use what is called a 1m pitch and the T uses a 32 pitch, now pitch refers to the number of teeth per inch, and the 1m is metric, so its per millimeter. 32 pitch has smaller teeth and 1m has larger teeth.

If I'm not mistaken, the stock T uses a 22 tooth/32p bell and a 72 tooth/32p spur and there is a ratio for this combo that gives you the final outcome, but thats a little complicated, so I won't go there unless asked.
You may have a hard time finding a bell to fit the BB motors with a 22t/32 pitch to match that of the 72t/32p spur. SOOOO!

What I did for my two BB T's is I went to a 1m/15t bell for the BB motor and used a steel 52t/1m spur from a Monster GT and this works quit well.

I did the math for the conversion and the differance from the stock T's to this new combo is very, very close, not enough to worry about.

Now the MGT has a couple dift spur gear sizes, 46t to 54t, so you can play a little with the ratio, but best to do this with the plastic spur gears to start, but you may not find that the steel gears may only come in the 52t size (I ordered my custom from England) also, you can bell with the bell sizing as well, but you will want to stay close to the 15t mark. (13-18t mark) any more and you may rip your drive train apart.

Also to remember, the bigger the spur/smaller the bell, the slower you go and the smaller the spur/bigger the bell, the faster you go. (when you go down with your spur, you should also go up with the bell and vise/versi)

Hope this helps?:cool: Not too many people know this kinda stuff.

P.S. I have a BB conversion kit for the T for sale, if interested, PM me.

[dale_gribble]

I would only do the conversion if I had a Maxx 3.3 with all of the updated Revo stuff. I think it would be too expensive to start with a 2.5 or 1.5 Maxx.

You have to figure, that 3.3 Maxx is basically already ready for a big block since it is basically running one (3.3 is a .201). 3.3 Maxx got a ton of upgrades to deal with more power: Revo spec tranny, bigger driveshafts, better slipper clutch, stronger bulks and diff housings. You could always update your 2.5 Maxx with all of this stuff from an RC chop shop too.

After that, I would do the Hardcore racing .21 titanium conversion, put a nice big block in there and just go for it.

A lot of the problems were when guys were trying to convert their 1.5 and 2.5 Maxxes that just didn't have the strength of the newer parts. I guess not many people convert anymore because I never hear about them, but I bet the 3.3 platform could almost take a big block stock.

[Taqrin]

I would only do the conversion if I had a Maxx 3.3 with all of the updated Revo stuff. I think it would be too expensive to start with a 2.5 or 1.5 Maxx.

You have to figure, that 3.3 Maxx is basically already ready for a big block since it is basically running one (3.3 is a .201). 3.3 Maxx got a ton of upgrades to deal with more power: Revo spec tranny, bigger driveshafts, better slipper clutch, stronger bulks and diff housings. You could always update your 2.5 Maxx with all of this stuff from an RC chop shop too.

After that, I would do the Hardcore racing .21 titanium conversion, put a nice big block in there and just go for it.

A lot of the problems were when guys were trying to convert their 1.5 and 2.5 Maxxes that just didn't have the strength of the newer parts. I guess not many people convert anymore because I never hear about them, but I bet the 3.3 platform could almost take a big block stock.


The only problem I came across with it was shock clearance behind the motor, that is why I went to the extrended T chassis. The 3.3 is still a small block motor, it just has BB guts, and when you jump up to the BB motor, you have a much bigger block, meaning you need more room for the motor, hence the extended chassis....that and the motor mount of the stock T's won't fit a real BB motor.

[dale_gribble]

Haha. That is why I wrote the comment -

"After that, I would do the Hardcore racing .21 titanium conversion, put a nice big block in there and just go for it."

I agree that he needs a conversion.

[Taqrin]

Haha. That is why I wrote the comment -

"After that, I would do the Hardcore racing .21 titanium conversion, put a nice big block in there and just go for it."

I agree that he needs a conversion.

I have two, count them, 2 American CNC Machining BB conversion kits hanging on my wall just waiting for a Big azz motor to be installed.....that and a Racers Edge extended chassis with an extended skid plate, also waiting in the wings.:rolleyes: :eek: :cool: :D

[Daveo]

I have already put tons of money in the drive train of my T. I have the otb and hardcore gears in the tranny, MIP cvds all the way around, MGT steel spur and slipper from Robinson racing and a werks racing 1/8th scale clutch. the only thing I have not upgraded are my diffs. They are stock diffs but use dynamite aluminum cases. I know this is going to bee spendy, but is there anything else you guys can think of that i will need. I am looking at the dynamite conversion.

[Taqrin]

My one T has a Hyper .21 and the other an EA.21 from a MGT....The one with the hyper .21 use to have a CRP Z.28R spec.2 in it, but that was WAY too much motor for it, it just hopped, jumped and danced all over the place. I couldn't keep it rubber side down, so I stuck that motor in a custom built TNX and put the hyper .21 in instead.:cool:

[Taqrin]

I'll sell you one of my American CNC kits if you like, that will look sweet on it.:cool:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t180/Taqrin/2eb3_1_sbl.jpg

[Taqrin]

BTW your diffs should work fine, I put spools in the rears, but other than that....stock.

[Daveo]

cool thanks!!

[Taqrin]

Hey! just checking, you do know what spools are and what they do?

[jbrownlee]

a spool is just a solid shaft in the rearend instead of the spider gears that lets the wheels slip a little. a spool make it posi track rear end. i have one in mine and it helps it wheelie alot more.

[Taqrin]

a spool is just a solid shaft in the rearend instead of the spider gears that lets the wheels slip a little. a spool make it posi track rear end. i have one in mine and it helps it wheelie alot more.

I just had to ask to make sure everyone knew this....:cool:

[Daveo]

I have done the spool thing before, but it killed the drive shafts so I went back to the diff.

[Daveo]

OK,

I went on Stormer hobbies and they had the Hardcoe racing .21 conversion on sale for $62.00 so I am going to get that one. Any recomendations on what engine to get? I am just a basher so I don't need a fire breather,I am just looking for some fun torque!!!

[Taqrin]

Is that the whole kit or just the chassis? You may find that it doesn't have every thing needed to make a compleat conversion. Most of the conversion kits I've seen run around $150.00 and up so you best check it out.

Here is one thats listed from an eBay seller friend of mine from Dynamite and they have one that comes with a motor as well. These are compleat kits.

I'd be willing to part with one of my kits if your interested.:eek:

http://cgi.ebay.com/DYNAMITE-DYN7402-T-MAXX-2-5-BIG-BLOCK-CONVERSION-NIB_W0QQitemZ280195137658QQihZ018QQcategoryZ44028Q QcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/DYNAMITE-DYN7401-T-MAXX-BIG-BLOCK-26-ENGINE-CONVERSION_W0QQitemZ280179267447QQihZ018QQcategory Z44028QQcmdZViewItem

[Daveo]

That is the WHOLE kit. The store is selling most of their hardcore parts for around 80% off. the original price for the kit is $249.00 I could not believe the deal.

Here is a link https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=HCR03101

That is for the silver one. I got the green one

[OldSchoolRC]

That is a great deal! Sorry i'm late to the party here. My T-maxx was big blocked for quite a while. I used a dynamite conversion in blue, and it had an extended chassis and rails, motor mounts, and CVD's. I did end up have to beef up a few things - thought the feedback would help.

Springs/Shock oil - the extra weight of the 21 and heavier chassis needed heavier springs and oil all the way around - especially in the back.

Steering servo - stock was ok, but again, with the extra heft it needed an upgrade.

Spur gear - i chewed up 2 before i finally went to a RR metal spur. Think it was more rocks and debris than anything else though.

Clutch - i went down 2 teeth but stuck with the same style Traxxas clutch bell and it worked great. i did find an aluminum clutch and everything worked out great.

Other than that, everything held up well. I used an Ofna Force .26 and it was plenty of motor. Only thing i broke was i used a spool in the rear and twisted one of the CVD's while running on road...got rid of the spool and everything held up fine after that. No tranny or suspension problems other than the spur at all. T-maxx is a solid truck!

[Benz]

get the 3.3 it is the bigest power plant out of all the t-maxx trucks

[Daveo]

OK I got the hardcore conversion today only to find that the rear drive shaft is the plastic shaft that is used on the stock t-maxx. I know i will destroy it quickly so I have on order a 110mm shaft and and drive cups from Unlimited engineering. Now i just need to figure out what motor to get. Any one have experience with the OFNA force .32? I really want wheelies. wil this engine get them for me?

[Daveo]

Ok I looked around and the Axial .28 is only $125.00. What A steal. I am going to get that and use a jammin X1 CR exhaust. What do you guys think? Will I get the wheelies of my dreams?

[Daveo]

OOOO:cool: :cool: I got my rear drive shaft from Unlimited engineering yesterday. I though it was going to be steel, but it is Titanium:D :D :D I have never had a TI shaft before. Has any one had experience with a TI shaft? Are they as strong as steel? It sure is light, that is for sure.

[Daveo]

I have started the build and already had a couple of snags. the drive cup that I got from UE did not fit the dogbone. After some dremeling and gentle persuasion with a hammer and a wedge I got it to work. I also tried to reuse a screw and the hex stripped out. Anyone know a good techniques for getting out a stripped screw that will not mees up my new chassis? I have used the old slot the screw with a dremel trick, but I am not very good at that and always end up sloting the stuff around the hole as well as the screw.

[pottsgroverc]

I have started the build and already had a couple of snags. the drive cup that I got from UE did not fit the dogbone. After some dremeling and gentle persuasion with a hammer and a wedge I got it to work. I also tried to reuse a screw and the hex stripped out. Anyone know a good techniques for getting out a stripped screw that will not mees up my new chassis? I have used the old slot the screw with a dremel trick, but I am not very good at that and always end up sloting the stuff around the hole as well as the screw.
There is a tool, don't know the name, and if you drill the center out you screw it in and unscrew the screw which broke. Basically the threads are backwards, so as you screw this tool in, it unscrews your broken screw.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952158000P?sbf=Brand&sbv=Craftsman&vName=Tools&cName=Mechanics+Tools&sName=Taps+%26+Dies

here is the link. it is called a drill out kit. nice to have.