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Dogbreath Racing
05-11-2008, 09:40 PM
Ok we started this project with an EXOTEK Tek18 graphite chassis conversion.
This kit includes the graphite chassis, graphite top plate, alloy motor mount, alloy front kickup plate, alloy battery stands, alloy steering crank, and hardware to mount those items to the chassis. Needed to complete: RC18B/T/MT Kit.
While I was shopping at Exotek I also picked up the new gear cover set. This is more than just alloy bling, this serves to keep all the debris out of your gears. A MUST for off-roaders.

The chassis is very nicely done and the engineering really shows, the batteries have been moved aft to provide better weight distribution for off-road running. The motor has been moved forward with the Spur gear mounted in the center of the chassis and the servo relocated to the opposite side and coupled with the new steering provides a much smoother operation without a lot of the slop found on the stock RC18.

NOTICE: This kit is designed for serious offroad racers, and assemly should only be attemted by EXPERIENCED modelers, there is alot of finishing and fitting work to putting this kit together properly. If you are new to R/C or a street basher then this kit is not for you, there are other chassis sets that are less expensive and easier to build.

I started by finishing the chassis, by this I mean I took my Dremel and a carbide bit and removed all the sharp edges left on the chassis by the CNC machine, I payed special attention and really smoothed the battery slots (I don't want the sharp graphite edges cutting through the battery shrink wrap). I then sealed the entire chassis edges with CA, this will help prevent splintering and edge seperation later down the road.

http://img126.imageshack.us/img126/765/img0641zg4.jpg

As I stated above, you need a complete RC18 kit to complete this conversion.....unless you replace almost everything else on the truck as well.....looks like we have a near complete NEW build.
I added every alloy option available to make this DREAM RC18T/MT very stought and very BLING! Every once in a while we can afford to do something like this....this one is my time......

http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/8909/img0665ae3.jpg

OK at this point the chassis has been finished and the battery stands, motor mount, and kickup have been installed.
All the screws provided in the Exotek kits are hex head (just so you know) Nice quality too! While not complete in this picture, the TEK18 uses a new motor mount design, it is very easy to adjust gear mesh with just one (1) screw.

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/561/img0668hm5.jpg

Now we on to the alloy gear cases.....this caused me grief....I had to take my dremel and remove some material from the bottom of the rear case to get it to fit properly (This is included in the instructions for stock cases) eeeeewwww I hate grinding brand new shiney alloy! I believe this is because the Exotek chassis does not have a notch cut in the back of the chassis for the case like the stock chassis, this would require a second 3D cut to the chassis during production and significantly increase the price of the chassis. Since the kit was designed for use with the stock plastic cases...no biggie about grinding one of them....but I went alloy and thats a different matter.

http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/3469/img0670ts5.jpg

NOTE: EXOTEK does NOT reccomend alloy arms or shock towers be used on this kit....will have to ask them why....

....just wanted everyone to know that before I go on...with the full alloy hopup conversion

...OK, everyone keeping up?

Now we move on and install the Arms (this took me quite a while to get correct, there was alot of fitting work done to get the arms to move freely....again I stress...for EXPERIENCED modelers only!). We also installed the C-Hubs, Steering Blocks, Rear Hubs, the rest of the Motor Mount and Gear Covers, bearings, motor, turnbuckles, Steel diff gears, Sup diff outdrives, and drive shafts....It was here I made a goof in my ordering and found I had the wrong CVDs for this build, I will get the right ones, but for now I will use the stock FT dogbones

http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/1539/img0676dl2.jpg

Dogbreath Racing
05-11-2008, 09:44 PM
Next we installed the steering servo and new crank and hooked everything up.....very smooth....but again finishing work has to be done to get things to go full range smoothly.
We then added the MT rims and tires......all thats left is the Elecs


Oh....the RPM bumper is just for fitting, a new Integy front bumper is on the way with the CVDs


http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/6875/img0695jm6.jpg

a closer look at the rear end

http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/9038/img0704wt7.jpg

a closer view of the motor mount with gear covers

http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/3316/img0694fu3.jpg

and from the rear

http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/5037/img0693wm8.jpg

looks like it seals up nice, I like the clean simple look and all that alloy acts like a heat sink sucking the heat away from the motor. This motor mount/gear cover set also adds a third point of contact in the middle of the chassis, this will add rigidity to the chassis.

You can also see the side of the motor mount is drilled...perhaps for a cooling fan?

Finished up mounted the elecs, now waiting for a painted body to come back from the painter....yes it will run a DBR Buggy body

http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/9017/img0708gu4.jpg

Dogbreath Racing
05-11-2008, 09:49 PM
OK here's the first one, nice clean look

http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/4792/img0792rm0.jpg

http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/8284/img0798nl5.jpg

...a couple more pics ready

http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/285/img0796re4.jpg

http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/4073/img0795jx3.jpg

a simple paint scheme that says USA! but still not too busy to the eye, yet bright enough that these old eyes can still follow it on the track.
(SIDE NOTE: Now the scoop on the V2 cools the batts instead of the motor, gonna have to redesign that scoop for the motor on the V3 body)


http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/2870/img0805yt7.jpg

http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/9973/img0806fm2.jpg

http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/4579/img0800id8.jpg

Dogbreath Racing
05-11-2008, 09:51 PM
SNEEK PEEK

http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/6419/img1047jd9.jpg

....and a little pic of me as well, all slicked up and ready to go out on the town!!!!



















































http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/4357/worldsugliestdogvl4.jpg

Dogbreath Racing
05-11-2008, 09:54 PM
http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/6734/img1052pe5.jpg

ok the final gem in the DREAM RC18T build has arrived.....

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/8288/img1141uk4.jpg

Time to install the last part of this build...the center slipper clutch.

The kit comes with all the required parts to perform this installation, a shaft with built in rear pressure plate, front pressure plate, center support bearing, teflon impregnated delrin spur gear (57T), four pressure washers, a delrin spacer, a delrin nut, and a set pin fot the shaft assembly.

Here we see the TEK18 prepared for surgery, the spine and top gear covers have been removed.
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/9360/img1171hb9.jpg

The instructions provided were a bit vauge in description, but with the help of a good diagram I got through it. First remove the cener drive shaft and drive the pin out that holds the hex piece on the drive shaft, set aside the hex and pin. Slide on the new threaded shaft/rear pressure plate and install new pin (be sure the pin is set well so it doesn't bind on the washers), next install the new spur gear and front pressure plate. Next comes the new bearing, spacer, four pressure washers (be sure to check the direction according to the instructions) and finally the delrin nut.

http://www23.instantestore.net/merchant10762/prod_images_blowup/DSC_081721.jpg

http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/6795/img1185lg8.jpg

The motor mount must be removed from the chassis and a small amount of material removed from the front of the bearing support to allow the pressure washers to rotate without drag (basically remove the anodizing and its enough to clear).

http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/5450/img1188mr7.jpg

Now reinstall the motor mount and drive shaft assembly back into the chassis....thats it!

http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/1262/img1192ke7.jpg

http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/9233/img1194xf2.jpg


Next clear day we will take this bad-boy out back and test the actual performance....should help alot.

Oh.....and I did get a swanky new 20mm BL motor heat sink from TheToyz....looks cool and helps keep things cool too.

This kit is $25 and fit the TEK18 and TEK18X, slipper kits for the stock RC18 series are available now!

Dogbreath Racing
05-11-2008, 09:57 PM
We get the whole truck back together and the only giveaway that it has a slipper is the adjustment nut sticking out of the front of the gear case

http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/4921/img1195st8.jpg

It does look like it might be easier to make adjustments with the battery OUT, it is getting tight under there!

EXOTEK TEK18 OFF-ROAD TESTING (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ti_IbZaxcX4)

Dogbreath Racing
05-11-2008, 10:01 PM
Hi Guys! I am new here but some of you know me from other forums. The above is an edited re-post from one of the other forums.
Loved building this truck, love driving it even more....looking forward to your comments.




Oh and I see on this forum I'm just a C-Main racer....LOL
Haven't raced in the C-Main in over fifteen yeras!

fastmax
05-11-2008, 10:46 PM
VERY NICE build. Makes me want to get an Exotek conversion for my 18B.

OldSchoolRC
05-12-2008, 09:00 AM
very nice indeed! i have heard that the stock cars can be a handful with a mamba, all that aluminum should help plant it much better!

Mouse4666
05-25-2008, 06:12 PM
what truck body is that?