move over Milner

[roadrunnr43]

for the past few days or so I have been hatching some evil plans.
the plans are for a semi scale 1/10 nitro hot rod that is going to be
based around a parma "hemi coupe II". the basic idea for the 'rod' is to put
the small-block .18 up front, where the plastic hemi would be.
I will also be building a plate/rail chassis out of 1/2" X 1/4" steel,that will be the platform for a sideways duratrax nitro evader transmission, that will have the right out shaft cut off, and the diff locked, so I can put the engine next to the spur gear, allowing the gear reduction to be inline with the engine. the DTX transmission also has brakes and a slipper clutch on it. the front axle and suspension will consist of a single leaf spring pack supporting the steering mechanism (wich I will not be revealing now because I don want anyone stealing my plans, but boy is it good:D:D). I am also thinking of using FT rc18 shocks up front, and possibly in back. the rear axle will be solid, much like a 1:1, and dont have a clue what I'm gonna do for that, though a narrowed wheely king axle might work. performance is the 7th thing I'm worried about (after making sure every thing fits), coolness is the key here. I wont post many pictures because 1, this is a library computer. 2,the construction will definetly take a while.

what I ask from you is; how do you lock a ball diff?

could you post some pictures of the inside of
a WK axle?

suggest a good small block .18

please be patient. (even though I'm more impatienter
than you)

[OldSchoolRC]

what I ask from you is; how do you lock a ball diff?


Try using Traxxas Rulon pegs ilo the diff balls and tighten it down real tight. Worked GREAT in my TLT's center tranny.

For the rear axle, how about a tamiya semi rear axle? a WK axle is super wide, a semi's is much, much narrower and should tuck those wheels in nicely. I see them all the time on the bay for not too many clams.

post some pics once you get rolling - sounds like an awesome project!

[pedeboi364]

...lol, you could stick mulch in ur diff...

[roadrunnr43]

Im gettin some 1/2" X 1/2" steel and some ball ends tonight, and am going to ask my dad to machine down 1/4" - 3/16" off the steel for the rails.

the ball diff has been taken out of the formula. instead of killing my nitro evader, i'll be trying to build a 3 gear reduction system, i've got the plans and it should work OK, its just 70% of this monster is gonna be steel. so I may have to save for a .21:D

i'll have to look around for someone with a semi axle that will take hard cash,
because my parents dont like the concept of Ebay, and paypal is too slow on our computer (or something like that)

did I mention its supposed to be a low buck build?::rolleyes:

[roadrunnr43]

apperently you cant buy solid 1/2" X 1/2" steel. but thats OK cuz I got some
square tubing, and I'am am bending it to sorta resemble a real deuce frame

ya gotta be flexible wid yer plans

[roadrunnr43]

cut and bent the rails a couple days ago, I over cut a few angles and had to
make some spacers so we can weld it solid.
after its welded REALLY good, I'm gunna grind it down so you wont even know its been cut.

the first one is in progress,
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/182.jpg
and after all the cuts have been made. the left side is the back.
I still have to narrow the front rails, but I'll wait till its all welded up so I dont break anything off
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/193.jpg

[Been 2780]

its looking good so far

[roadrunnr43]

finally got enough money for the body, puttin in the order tomorrow (my LHS is closed mondays, ya see) and im thinking red, white, and blue. more red and white than blue.
for wheels im lookin at either HPI vintage 5-spokes, or
their vintage NASCAR wheels, they both would be in the HPI vintage tires.
btw, do the vintage tires have white letters on them?

[Maxx man]

i know o.s makes a killer .18 small block and peeks over 2.4 hp:cool:

[roadrunnr43]

the body came in the mail yesterday. figured it would be cheaper to order
it from tower than to drive to my not-so-LHS.
the front axle is milled out. its 7" wide ( a little wide, but it kinda has to be)x 1"ish tall x 1/4". im gonna mount some AE FT rc18 shocks up front. still need to do some drilling but otherwise its done!
for the back axle im lookin into RC4wds new T-rex 44 axle.

ill try to post pics when the bodys painted

WAIT A SECOND!! i still need to know what good starting point for a gear ratio is (?)

[roadrunnr43]

ditching the red white and blue in favor of a black/olive drab job

[roadrunnr43]

now im ditchin the drab in favor of black w/ blue-outlined yellow flames.
NO WAIT!! (bad word)!!

I CANT MAKE UP MY MIND!!!

[roadrunnr43]

painted the body last week, went with a dark gray roof and trim/orange thing.
I finally decided to scrap my nitro evader bx in favor of saving money. it wasnt in 'great' shape so as I was taking it apart i cleaned everything up pretty good. i even went as far as to take a peek inside the engine and HOLY SHNICKES! imagine a scrapyard dipped in oil, buried in dirt for a year, unburied, and painted orange. no wonder it didnt work. i took pictures but my brother wont upload them/wont let me.

[roadrunnr43]

the front axle is pretty well done. still need to drill a couple holes for some shocks, and solder my tie rod together.
mostly just gathering materials and hardware, but it is definetly coming together.

I feel like im talking to myself:(

[LSXEric]

Trust me i've loved this project! People just want to see progress, but I know its a project. It takes time! Kepp us posted.:cool:
_________________________
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVMYKqBmelk
When I grow up I wanna be like Walter

[bugz2002]

i dont know if you dont have a camra or what but if you post pictures of what your doing people will commet more on your project. i have been keeping and eye on this build just waiting for pictures. i am too lazy to read...lol

[roadrunnr43]

we have a nice camera, but its REALLY difficult to post pics

[roadrunnr43]

pictures!http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/041.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/040.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/050.jpg
the bottom ones is the semi-completed front axle

[roadrunnr43]

some thing happened to my paint job,
the orange evaporated.

i was puttin on a "protective" coating and it did something

[Taylor]

Ouch what brand did you use?

[LSXEric]

I like the body even though that orange evaporation happened. So u now what size or brand nitro engine u useing?

[roadrunnr43]

parma paint. i think i might have mixed up the thinner with the clear coat. black stuff was pactra, still there!

the stock nitro evader .18, needs a rebuild though.

[LSXEric]

U ever gonna up-grade to a high end .12 or .21? Also what tunned pipe are u going to use?

[roadrunnr43]

U ever gonna up-grade to a high end .12 or .21? Also what tunned pipe are u going to use?

probably not, and I dont know. I DO need a 90-degree header tho, i think one from HPI rs4 would work.

[Been 2780]

im really not shure waht this thread is about, does anyone care to explain?

[LSXEric]

Any info yet?:confused: I really like this project

[kaleb2]

thats a nice body

[roadrunnr43]

im really not shure waht this thread is about, does anyone care to explain?

its build thread. I know it should be some were else but its not really a "car"
car. of course i realized a week later that i should have put it in the "show us what you drive" section.

[roadrunnr43]

I have several pictures of a mock-up, but its difficult to put them on photobucket (im on a library computer)
but that'll change in a week, were getting DSL at home.:D

[LSXEric]

Not to be mean, but welcome to the twenty-first century!

[roadrunnr43]

here are the pictures. this one is the of all the stuff stacked up to make it look like it will when its done. the front will sit about 1" higher when the suspension is bolted on,and the chassis plate will be placed further forward. as you will see in later pictures, the mock-up is already out-dated.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/045.jpg
picture without the body
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/046.jpg
and what were currently using as a rear end, an aluminum boston gears 90-degree box, with a 2:1 ratio circa. 1970. overkill? maybe.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/047.jpg
the complete front end. with stock duratrax steering knuckles shaved down to 1/2" tall, and team Associated RC18 FT alum. shocks filled w/ 100 WT oil.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/060.jpg

[Been 2780]

aww dude that is serioudly awesome, is it going to be a drag racer?? it looks like a hot rod

[LSXEric]

How heavy is the rear end? Like u said looks overkill:D

[roadrunnr43]

its not really a drag car but i hope it performs like one. actually, I have no idea where to run it.

[roadrunnr43]

the rear is definetly upwards of a pound or so:eek:.
i REALLY hope to get a T-rex 60 axle from RC4WD, but that costs about $100,
compared to $0

[problem child]

That front axle is a work of art! Can't wait to see the whole car finished. I have been planning a salt flats roadster for speed runs and it will be along similar lines as yours. Its an inspiration!

[roadrunnr43]

That front axle is a work of art! Can't wait to see the whole car finished. I have been planning a salt flats roadster for speed runs and it will be along similar lines as yours. Its an inspiration!

cool! I was thinking of hacking the top off to make it a roadster, but Ill have so much stuff under there, that Id have to fab an interior of sorts. too much work.

oh, and the front axle is based mostly on a model T axle, wich wouldnt be used on a hot rod. of course, what do I know.

[roadrunnr43]

might I suggest................

1) a .18 is going to be WAY too much motor, and even if you do get the project finished, that you'll never get it to run as it will be uncontrollable with that much motor (think about a .12)

2) the RC18 shocks are WAY too small for anything other than a diminutive 1/18-sized vehicle

OK,
1) I have a .18, and a .12 engine wouldnt have enough toque to get it moving. and there expensive. as You may have noticed, everything on here is pretty much leftover scrap steel. and I'm astonished how quickly its coming along.

2) half the point of this build is to make it look kinda real, I'm not going to be taking this behemoth over jumps, Ill be running it on semi smooth asphalt, with a few lowspots.

thank you for your concern:)

[stang444]

What gives you that idea?

Unless that thing is 1/5th scale, or is going to weigh 42 pounds, it seems it shouldn't be an issue.

I understand this is a "scrap-pile build" - no worries. But overpowering a vehicle, regardless of where you plan to run it, is really an issue people often neglect to think about in projects such as this (dusty parking lots, smooth or not, are notorious for their lack of traction). ;)

Well....Im wondering...because of that giant bahemoth tranny in the back. Man im inspired....I have a project coming up

[LSXEric]

Man that wheel spin is the fun part!:D I think the 18 is fine because they are not really race motorsbut sport ones.

[LSXEric]

Okay..... thats kinda odd..... Yes realy , O realy , Yes really:D

[stang444]

Im hopin 4 mor pics soon, cant wait to see the finish.

[roadrunnr43]

listen, I'v thought this through, and wheel spin/"over powering" is not gonna be a problem. true, I have the gear reduction from the transmission And the rear, but im putting 2.2in truck slicks in the back, not drift car treads. Im thinking pro-line speed hawg II 2.2's.
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/p/proc1080.jpg

besides, its a bottom end duratrax small block fer cryin' out loud!
(but who knows, maybe an RB-innovations super charger may find its way on there........maybe......someday.)

[roadrunnr43]

OH yessss, the internals of the engine.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/FamilyPhotos233.jpg
scared yet?
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/FamilyPhotos234.jpg

this people, is what happens to an engine, if you never clean the air filter, and never use after-run oil. or if your best friend sells you the car and He never cleaned the filter or used oil. but for $80 for the whole car, I couldnt resist.

[roadrunnr43]

http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/8016/smilieshockedbd0.gif http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/1894/smilieshelfqueenbe6.gif http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/2152/smiliepopcornqr6.gif

werent you the guy who complained about NOT being able to understand other people?

[Slashman]

werent you the guy who complained about not being able to understand other people?

amen!!!!!!!!!

[Slashman]

OH yessss, the internals of the engine.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/FamilyPhotos233.jpg
scared yet?
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/FamilyPhotos234.jpg

this people, is what happens to an engine, if you never clean the air filter, and never use after-run oil. or if your best friend sells you the car and He never cleaned the filter or used oil. but for $80 for the whole car, I couldnt resist.
I swear that looks like an engine I just went through:eek: LOL

[LSXEric]

Aaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhh! That engine is nasty, scary, and just plain not right! Ur gonna use that thing!:eek:

[roadrunnr43]

Aaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhh! That engine is nasty, scary, and just plain not right! Ur gonna use that thing!:eek:

yep! a rebuild kit and few thousand Q-tips is a lot, and I mean a lot, cheaper than buying a new mill. btw, those pictures are not up to date, and ive stripped it down to the block an cleaned it out. waitin for the rebuild kit from the LHS.

[roadrunnr43]

BEWARE! this might be what your engine looks like RIGHT NOW!! (insert stupid evil-ish laugh here)

[stang444]

here are the pictures. this one is the of all the stuff stacked up to make it look like it will when its done. the front will sit about 1" higher when the suspension is bolted on,and the chassis plate will be placed further forward. as you will see in later pictures, the mock-up is already out-dated.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/045.jpg
picture without the body
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/046.jpg
and what were currently using as a rear end, an aluminum boston gears 90-degree box, with a 2:1 ratio circa. 1970. overkill? maybe.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/047.jpg
the complete front end. with stock duratrax steering knuckles shaved down to 1/2" tall, and team Associated RC18 FT alum. shocks filled w/ 100 WT oil.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/060.jpg


He's right check out the eng in this pic. OOOOOOOOOHHHHHHH SHINEY

[LSXEric]

I doubt my engine looks like that. I keep very good care of it, and rebuild, or buy a new mill after 5 gallons. Mine is nice and shiny too!;)

[roadrunnr43]

a few more interesting pictures.
the front axle with the shocks mounted. and also the shock towers (yes i know they're not attached to anything). Oh, and the shocks will be tilted more inward
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/IMG_0644.jpg
the engine mount, wich has been grinded down to save a few ounces. those things next to it also used to be attached to it, but I figured 'hey, theys not doin nuttin'.' that and they needed to be cut so the mount could fit between the rails.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/IMG_0643.jpg
here is how the engine will line up with the transmission. what would be the left output shaft (right side of photo) has been cut short so pinion can mesh with the spur gear.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/IMG_0641.jpg

not bad for pieces of steel that has, literaly, been pulled out of a machine shop dumpster. but that does not lessen the integrity of the build. (idont even know what 'integrity' means:D)

[stang444]

Looking good man. What kind of wheels do you plan to put on?

[LSXEric]

Rear slicks!:D And skinnys up front would be awsome!

[roadrunnr43]

Looking good man. What kind of wheels do you plan to put on?


Rear slicks!:D And skinnys up front would be awsome!

pro-line speed hawg 2.2 truck slicks in back, and either tamiya medium/narrow tires, or hpi vintage slicks (26mm). and for wheels im thinking hpi vintage 5 spokes, because they look like Cragars/American racing Torq thrust's. and for the back I'm stuck between RPM revolvers, or Traxxas five spoke 2.2's.

[roadrunnr43]

I finally finished painting the body.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/IMG_0652.jpg
I painted the exterior with semi-gloss Krylon. and then I scanned an old issue of Hot rod magazine into the computer, "cut" out an ad with all the brand logos, with "paint", shrunk them down 20% (they were pretty small to begin with), printed them out on a sticker sheet, covered them with contact paper, and BOOM. there you are. I did the same with the fish, except I scanned a picture I drew, copied it, and flipped the copy. I'm planning on making firewall out of a piece of 16GA steel, and glueing a peice of cloth to the roof to make it look like it hasnt been filled.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/IMG_0653.jpg
for the record, its pronounced Roosh racing

[Been 2780]

body turned out good

[roadrunnr43]

I'm currently working on making headlights out of styrofoam. the ones that came with the body were to small for My liking.
dont know wether to paint them silver, or to go yellow and add some contrast to the body.

[LSXEric]

Man the body looks great!:D

[stang444]

VERRY SWEET LOOKIN! So whats next?

[roadrunnr43]

Not much. pretty much just waiting to weld the frame all together.

But I did get a firewall. about 50% of it will cut off by the time I'm through with it. the square cut-outs at the bottom are for the rails to go through.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/IMG_0769.jpg
the orang paint was a test to see if it would stick.

[LSXEric]

Man I like how the firewall is on the body. Much cooler than it on the frame, which might no even work:eek:

[roadrunnr43]

Oh Ye of little faith, I still gotta cut the firewall for the flywheel and make the rail holes bigger. and the hole for the throttle linkage.

by the way, what do you mean "might not even work"??

[LSXEric]

Well I dont know, it can be done just your way is better.

[Been 2780]

he is talking about putting the firewall on the chassis, and not on the body

[roadrunnr43]

Oh few.. You had me worried!

[roadrunnr43]

I did some math the other day (hooray for Me), and I can get a T-rex 60 rear axle, brand new, from RC4WD.com, for $65, instead of $120!

now heres the catch, I wont have any instructions. not a big deal? it is if you've never built any thing like this before.

heres how it goes;

buy a set of T-rex 60 plastic axle replacement parts, part# X-0427 $25
1 steel straight axle,-------------------------------part# X-0093 $15
1 bevel gear shaft,---------------------------------part# X-0274 $10
1 tracgear spool gear,------------------------------part# X-0056 +$15
-----------------------------------------------------------------$65

supply your own screws, nuts, bearings and E-clips, and badda-bing badda-boom, you should have a complete T-rex 60 axle.

somebody please let Me kow if I forgot something other than screws, nuts, bolts, bearings, E-clips, 12mm wheel hexes, pins and that I've lost My mind.

[bugz2002]

hey roadrunner i think i found your mind. it was in the gutter.

[roadrunnr43]

so thats where it went!:D

[roadrunnr43]

progress has been happenning, but not enough for me to post about it.

I've been working on some styrofoam headlights, but the paint needs sit for 48 HOURS before i can do another layer.

another thing I'm working on is chopping the top. yes it was molded to look
chopped, but it sits about an 1/8" to 1/4" too high for my liking.
I'm a little worried about how it will turn out, but I'm hoping it'll turn out good.

[stang444]

Good luck;)

[roadrunnr43]

I'm almost through with the chop job, turned out pretty good... on the outside.

what i did was
(1) cut out the windows.
(2) cut a long piece of tape, about 1/8" to 1/4" wide. it can be as wide as you want, -the wider, the lower the roof- but it must be consistant, and straight.
(3) I wrapped afore mentioned tape around the top of the body, positioning it half-way up the windows, finding a spot where the windows are fairly vertical.
(4) here comes the fun part, take your dremel and chop that thing! cutting the top part of the tape first, and the bottom second, cutting THROUGH the tape. IF the top does not come off, some thing is wrong.
(5) using bondo, epoxy, or if neither are available, E-6000 glue, (available at craft stores, bondo or epoxy is preffered). cut pieces of lexan and glue them to inside of the pillars, use alot.
(6) put the top back on, positioning it so the back window is lined up,
and then gluing like crazy on the inside, making sure the top doesnt MOVE.
(7) after step 6 is dry, position the top over the front window pillars. IF you listened to step 5, and not just skimming this entire post over, you would find it is a lot easier to do. glue the front into place.
(8) repeat 6 and 7 on the b-pillars.
(9) put thick CA glue on the outer seam, using alot, and filling in any gaps.
(10) use the dremel to smooth over the seam on the outside.
(11) repaint outside

oh, did i forget to mention this only works on exterior painted-parma-hemi-coupes? kind of a narrow demographic.

its also 10-times harder than I say.

[roadrunnr43]

these thing are dirt cheap, and hard to make.
this is for roof lights or hot rod-fenderless style

take a chunk of styrofoam, and get it down to the size you want it, but make it bigger than you want. use rough grit sand paper to smooth out the shape.

now what ya do is stick a pin (not 'safety') into it so the 'lighted' end points towards the head of the pin, but try not to puncture through it.
take a paint brush and dip it into some elmers glue, and covering the 'light' with it*. this is to protect the foam from desintigrating from the spray paint.

paint it. spray paint works best.

*plasti-dip/coat should work to, as would thin CA glue*

thats about all i've got.

[roadrunnr43]

some more usless info.
pictures showin the chop;
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/IMG_0833.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/IMG_0832.jpg

it could have gone better.. but its looking OK now.

pictures of the taillight holders..
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/IMG_0834.jpg

it all may look rough.. but thats because it is:D.

[roadrunnr43]

OH, the taillight holders are made of pink styrofoam, blue styrofoam would have been better. also notice the infamous "F-bomb" camaro torpedo.

and in the chop pictures, where the b-pillars are clear-ish, thats a perfect example of how not to chop a top. (its just E-6000 glue:eek:).


and I know your reading this Sam.

[roadrunnr43]

got a little more work on it done. welded the rails to cover those obscene cuts in them, and made a air filter tube out of steel tube that's slightly smaller
than conduit. i took the tube, cut angles into it, bent it and covered the gaps
with aluminum tape. therefore creating a primitive sort of ram-air:D. the reason
i did this was so the filter wasnt absorbing all the heat from the cooling head.
i'll post pictures soon.

[roadrunnr43]

welded the frame rails together, now i have to bolt the bottom plate on,
and weld the shock towers on.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/IMG_0902.jpg

and here is the ram-air. simple, but works. i hope to get a larger filter for it.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/IMG_0899.jpg

[LSXEric]

Wow too cool! Ram air is awsome!

[roadrunnr43]

I now have the front suspension stuff bolted on. except shocks, cuz the towers arent attatched.

im gonna splurge, im getting an ax10 scorpion rear axle.
they're cheap(ish), they were built to go on an rc, and theyr lighter than 1.5 pounds
of aluminum.

i also noticed in the recent rcd, an ad for the losi 1/10 slider.
they have veeery attractive wheels....;)

[TMAXX JUNKIES]

Great job so far can't wait to see it finished!!

[roadrunnr43]

i got an ax10 axle for christmas, wich should help scoot progress along.
in an effort to save weight, im using a lexan sheet to create the back plate.

[roadrunnr43]

got some new rubber. speedhawg 2's on cheap traxxas wheels, and hpi vintage
5-spokes in matching treads.
have to adjust ride height though, looks like a gasser.

[Mouse4666]

you should find hpi chrme wheels for the 2.2 rear tires
you should post more pics

[roadrunnr43]

ok so, Me and my dad after alot of time, have just finished fabbing a
homebrewed exhaust manifold using 5/8 brass tubing and a one-piece custom-turned
"adapter". the manifold goes out from the engine, down at 45-degree angle, and back towards the left-rear tire. ill post pics soon,
and dont nobody dare dis it.

[roadrunnr43]

here it is as it sits,
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/march-12-2009070.jpg
the good camera was taken, so the pictures kinda bad.

as a bonus, heres the rod that cemented my plans
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/march-12-2009057.jpg
powered by a 350 chev with 3 deuces and a 4-speed from a '71 el camino going
to a '57 chevy rear end. if your good, youll notice the studebaker valvecovers,
and cut repro. rear fenders.

[Der_Meister]

looks like one huge lake pipe!

[snownitro]

good small block .18 is : GXR .18 by kyosho made for kyosho dbx works great

[LSXEric]

Dude I don't care what anyone says, that is a RAT-ROD!!

[roadrunnr43]

Dude I don't care what anyone says, that is a RAT-ROD!!

not quite, its a built-using-pieces-i-can-find rod. so maybe more along the lines of a trad rod. ill post more pics soon.

[roadrunnr43]

some more crappy pics!
welded the shock towers on this morning, (burnt my thumb:eek:)
and now the front axle is done! its a tad stiff so im thinking maybe 60 wt oil.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/03-14-2009003.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/03-14-2009001.jpg

and a close up of the manifold.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/03-14-2009002.jpg
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/03-14-2009004.jpg

[OldSchoolRC]

Nice work!! looks awesome

[roadrunnr43]

painting the frame and plate (as Carrol Shelby calls it) gawdawful yellow to match the firewall. it's looking NASTY!

hoping to order traxxas drive shaft parts soon, still wondering how to mount
it on to the transmission..

[Maxx man]

sweet its looking good! havnt looked at this thread for a while

[roadrunnr43]

now the front is steerable. as vaguely seen in previous picture #2,
there are pins that go though the knuckles, that are held in place by a set-screw.

that setscrew is in for some trouble.

the right pin now has an arm attached to the top, and a ball end on the end,
so now when that arm is pushed forward (i.e. the servo) the wheels turn right.
and that setscrew is the only thing holding that pin/arm/knuckle on.
we'll see how that works, ill post pictures later.

[roadrunnr43]

this is the pin I was talking about
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/april-14-2009555.jpg
and here it is in its natural habitat
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/april-14-2009550.jpg
and heres the servo hooked up to it. the link needs to be welded together still.
one crazy link, huh? it needs to be bent like that so it clears the body and wheels.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/april-14-2009554.jpg
now heres the latest addition, moon discs! they press on, and they
are built using an item im sure you use, any guesses?
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk140/roadrunnr43/april-14-2009556.jpg

[LSXEric]

You have an axial axle? I thought it was a WK axle. Cool no dought though!

[roadrunnr43]

yeah its an axial. just because you can buy them whole for $35.

[roadrunnr43]

ok ill spill the beans. the moon discs are made using the bottoms from
aluminum soda cans. they're perfect, theyve got this wonderful bubble shape to
them, and if cut-out right, they press on.

[crazydave]

ok ill spill the beans. the moon discs are made using the bottoms from
aluminum soda cans. they're perfect, theyve got this wonderful bubble shape to
them, and if cut-out right, they press on.That is a great I idea, and I love the look of Moon disc. Thanks for the tip!

[roadrunnr43]

i got the engine attached, and with the manifold, it fits perfectly. i was concerned about the front-left tire rubbing the manifold, but everythings OK.
5139
i dremeled out the holes larger then they shouled be, so i can put washers on the screws, and move the engine every wich way.
5140
beautiful engineering shown here. the stock transmission has dog-bone outdrives, but the axial has universal joints. to convert the diff, we took a 5/16" shaft bolt, cut the threads, and drilled 4-40 threads into the end about 1/4" deep, then cut the bolt head off. the stock outdrives sandwich the dfif with a metric screw, a spring for tension, and a nut. i dropped that and used a 4-40 bolt, fuel tubing for tension, and the new output shaft. 5/16" works perfect because its slightly larger than 7mm, and i believe a traxxas yoke could be bored out that much.
5141

[tormentor3211]

wow what a project! i can't believe i missed this for 5 months!! when do you think you're going to have this up and running?

[roadrunnr43]

the drive train will roll as soon as i can order a revo/maxx shaft, but the engine
needs to be re-broken and tuned. i still need to locate the throttle servo, and gas tank.
not to mention the radio and batteries. all in all, sooner than you think;)

[roadrunnr43]

i was able to find my missing wheel nut, so the back rubbers are on.
the fronts are different. theyre made for an AWD car with hexes, but the spindles
on the DTX are larger. i filled in the hex with a shaped piece of lexan drilled it all out
some, and glued a length of brake tube in it. its primitive, so i put high impact grease on the shaft.

then comes the problem of holding them on. the nuts either bound them up, or were too loose.
dropped the nuts and went with 5/32 du-bro dura collars. airplane style.
this neccesitated grinding the threads down to nearly nothing, so the lock collars fit.

[roadrunnr43]

ok, got some more stuff done.

the stock fuel tank is now strapped down on the back of the frame, under the deck seat lid. zip-ties are wonderful.
the trunk now opens up to allow pouring of the gas.

I got a revo shaft, and found it was waaay too long. shortened both halves, and now it fits. i had to do a little grinding on the pinion shaft on the axle.
the tanny output shaft got lathed down so it fits the yoke.
its a little off balance, so i gotta do some messing around.

the throttle servo is now in place. now comes the linkage.

[roadrunnr43]

heres how the front wheels are held on.
5159
heres the tank..
5160
and the body. I fabbed the tie down pins fro m body clips. you twist them inward to open the trunk.
5161
5162
it isnt in the pictures, but the throttle servo is behind the trannsmission, on the left side.

[OldSchoolRC]

looking good! keep the pics coming!

[roadrunnr43]

tried out the radio stuff yesterday. after some adjusting of the throttle linkage,
the stock Tower radio will work. Im not too happy with it, but it will hold until
I save enough money for a receiver for my Skyion.

[LSXEric]

Like I said awsome. Very scale.

[roadrunnr43]

everythigs together.
everything works.
started the break in this morning. ran 2 tanks at idle through it.
didnt go anywhere, but it wanted too!

im gonna wait to finish breaking it in until i get the tigerdrive sometime after wednesday.

[LSXEric]

Once you get the tiger drive on, get that vid man. I've loved this project since day one.

[roadrunnr43]

nyehehehehe! i already have the video.
its filmed during break in, but it moves.
I got impatient and am using the pull start for now. it fires up pretty quickly.
later tonight it should be up.

[roadrunnr43]

video taped during break in.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qtm3iCdddG4
it dies by itslef in the movie, but its tuned enough so it doesnt do that anymore.

oh yeah. i lowered the back end about 1/2-3/4" after the filming.

[BAJA 1000]

Wow! you really put your mined into this what an amazing job you have done here thanks for sharing and teaching us that you don't need to have a load of ca$h to have a badass RC.

5 stars budd.

[LSXEric]

Nice man!!!

[Maxx man]

all I can say is awsome...

[roadrunnr43]

thank you to everyone who helped contribute with ideas answers and support.
if anyone should like to build something like this, id be willing to take measurements, and tell you what works and such.
all in all, i probbly spent about $250 on it. thats kind of a high guess, but its close.

[roadrunnr43]

i just realized i never posted finished pictures.
1st off: general over view,
5354
the battery box is stuck to the tank with double sided tape, and a zip-tie through 2 holes.
receiver is stuck using double sided tape.
5355
antenna mount is made with scrap lexan, glue, and a shortened antenna tube.
linkage is rusty fencing wire.
spur gear is flipped around for better gear mesh.
5356
on of my favorite parts, the on/off switch is mounted on the firewall.
below that is a little hook with a rubber band on it. theres another hook on the other side, and they hold the front of the body down.
5357
upper shock mount is thick lexan. thats it.
5358

[roadrunnr43]

a few more. the fail safe is in view under the deck lid.
5369
tigerdrive in place. radiator's been cut to fit.
one complaint with the TD; from the factory, the one way bearing was pushed waaay to far into the big gear. it couldnt get within 1/2" of the engine.
this neccesitated removing a brass bushing from the engine back plate, and
giving the OWB a pound with hammer (with a wood ruler in between for safety).
its been perfect since.
5370
stuff underneath.
5371
the yellow paint looks better in the pictures than it is. but if it turned out too nice, i wouldnt want to drive it.:D

[roadrunnr43]

something neat i saw in town.
the coolest lincoln town car ever.
5372

[Maxx man]

lol the only cool lincoln:rolleyes: just kidding...

thats awsome man!!! great job!

[LSXEric]

Awsome, nice ingunety all through!

[roadrunnr43]

did some scale 1/8th mile testing.
with my little bro and my watch on gravel, it ran 8.26 seconds. using the NHRA conversion, that would be 10.62 seconds in the 1/4 mile.

thats B.S.
it screams top speed through it all, so it'd be more like 15 seconds.
gearing needs to go up, up, and away.
the LHS did some drags a while ago, but none recently. maybe with "renewed interest"
they might bring it back.;)

[Maxx man]

wow that would be a pretty quick little roadster!!!! 8 seconds for an rc even on a scaled down track is pretty good I would think...

[roadrunnr43]

true, but its screaming its head off the entire time.
8 seconds in the 1/4, thats something. in the 1/8th? pitiful...
it CAN go faster. a lot faster.
saving my money for a Robinson 23T traxxas nitro clutch bell.

also thinking of shortening the clutch shoe spring, hoping it'll let the engine rev up
before taking off.

[roadrunnr43]

scale 1/8th mile testing. (66 feet.)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m1jM-7DkckM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArEE1UGG_4M
theres alot of wheelspin on the gravel, and the back end wants to go sideways.
drag racing is fun:D

[LSXEric]

Wow I can see what you mean by gearing up! Looks great anyways.

[roadrunnr43]

small update.
swiss-cheesed the rails, (thanks for the idea LSXeric)
and put a bulge in the body on the left front where the spur gear is. i had problems with it grinding a hole in the body.

[roadrunnr43]

ran the engine without a muffler yesterday. replaced it with a 4" long brass tube
with a tapped hole for the pressure line.
it was terrifying
at idle it sounded like a dirtbike at half throttle. when i gave it gas to move, (about 1/16 throttle) a B-17 couldnt be heard over it.
i'll keep the muffler on. greatly improved throttle response though.:D

[LSXEric]

Cool! I know how loud nitro motors are open. Post up some pics on the swiss chesse.

[Maxx man]

ya at the race a few weeks ago a few guys had the muflers pop off (I think they need locktight) and it was crazy loud

[roadrunnr43]

the humidity up here has me thinking strange things. ive had it together for only a month now,
and already im thinking of hanging the steel frame on the wall,
and making a super light bolt-together plastic chassis, or a brass tuber.
another thing is the tranny is unforgiveably geared low. already drawing up go-fast ideas.

the need for speed is a weird thing.

[roadrunnr43]

the car is getting drag-ified.
im doing a plastic bolt together frame, and a new "transmission" to take the gearing up to
stock Evader specs. getting pieces tommorow night.

[roadrunnr43]

found out that theres rarely a place in Wisconsin that will sell you a piece of 1/4" lexan smaller than a Pinto.
i'll just be using 16 Ga. steel instead.

[roadrunnr43]

heres the lighning holes on the 'old' frame.
5538

[LSXEric]

Cool, nice diet!

[roadrunnr43]

did some math (:eek:) and found an RRP 12 tooth would take the gearing slightly higher
than a stock evader, so i got one. but these things are stinking small.

[roadrunnr43]

got my rails back yesterday, and started bolting some stuff on. pictures to come.

[LSXEric]

Cool cool waiting on the pics.

[roadrunnr43]

this thing is about a 3rd of the weight as the tube rails.
5691
5692
i love all-thread.
5693
cut off the old triangle control arm and did this so the front can sit waaay lower.
5694
the shock towers have a way to go befor being finished.

[roadrunnr43]

just finished getting the back axle on. it hangs out past the end of the chassis so it can sit lower. pics to come.

[roadrunnr43]

it rolls.
5714
5715

drilled holes in the bottom of the axle case for the lower links (geomatry)
5716

[roadrunnr43]

hardly done anything to it for awhile, but i have most of the transmission done.
5771
its still a bit long. have to trim it.
5772
either mounted like this, or off to an angle.

[Maxx man]

sweet!!!!!!!!! looks awsome!!!!!!!!

[LSXEric]

I like V2 better than V1. Looks much lighter/ sportier.

[roadrunnr43]

I like V2 better than V1. Looks much lighter/ sportier.

sits way lower too. but that means the front axle bumps against the tigerdrive, so the engine is getting pushed back a bit.

[Lyric]

i like how you have it set up like a real car with the engine in the front

[roadrunnr43]

ok so im kinda stuck on the project. so im going to ask you something.
#1 should i mount the engine on a plate like V1, or
#2 attempt to make an engine mount that bolts directly to the rails. same with the tranny.

[LSXEric]

#2 for even more scale realizume.

[Maxx man]

hmm... thats a hard one... #2 I guess... sounds a bit harder but will probebly be more worth it in the end...

[roadrunnr43]

started the engine mount this afternoon. i actually finished this afternoon, but thats beside the point. anyway, here they are.
5870
still thinking how to do the tranny. more specificly the bearing holders.

[roadrunnr43]

the tranny is 90% done. only 90 because a setscrew is currently at large.
used a rear hub from the buggy laid sideways on a bent piece of 16 ga. steel.
ill get pics later.

[LSXEric]

Custom, custom, custom.:)

[roadrunnr43]

the tranny almost done
5899

[Maxx man]

looks awsome man!!!!!!!! dont know how I missed all this!

[roadrunnr43]

teaser: the good camera was taken so lets just call it that.
5978

new stuff done, 6-point roll cage, tube front shock towers, and im in the middle of narrowing the front axle and converting it to bandit knuckles and 2.2 rib tires.

[Maxx man]

sweet man!!!! looks nice!

[roadrunnr43]

finally got my hands on the good camera.
5994

and heres how it should look as soon as i narrow the TRX cheap-o specials, and the axle.
5995

scale drag racing would be such a cool class.

[Maxx man]

holly crud!!!!!!!! (for the possiblility or getting banned for using a different word) that thing is sweet!

[roadrunnr43]

the front axle is welded, narrowed and finished (again. I bet ill give a year and a half before i hack it up again). the rims have been narrowed, but im out of black paint as of now. I'm trying to save money for my first real car so progress is only budget limited.

[NHRCA_Revo]

I doubt my engine looks like that. I keep very good care of it, and rebuild, or buy a new mill after 5 gallons. Mine is nice and shiny too!;)

I know this post was a while back, but i run mine until they start to burn out or start smoking or something weird , then i destroy whatevers lefy with a few hard laps around the track at like 4mph for a minute before stuff starts exploding

[roadrunnr43]

pictures.
6095

cut out the chrome stuff, and added window screen.
need to make a shorter tie rod.

6096

the links are still kind of on the funky side.

[LSXEric]

Hey its function>form right? Get the traxxas specialties painted black and bam! Perfect RC rat rod!

[Maxx man]

wow this thing looks amazing man.... just amazing... if it had a regular motor in it id almost swear its real...

[Lyric]

thas too cool do you have any recent vids

[roadrunnr43]

thas too cool do you have any recent vids

not since i started V2. this ones a few weeks before I made the new frame, cage, and rebuilt everything else. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArEE1UGG_4M&NR=1

thanks everybody for the kind words.

[Maxx man]

I know its off road but still... looks geard kinda low... is there a way to gear it up?

actually if you go up the same amount on the pinion as you go down on the spur you shouldnt need to change the mesh...

[Lyric]

i think you need a higher rmp motor and to get the gearing just right because it has the capabilities to be a very fast dragster

[roadrunnr43]

it is geared up (now). that video was V1 with the evader tranny gearing AND the 2:1 from the axle. with whats in it now, the drive shaft is spinning faster then the engine. so in theory, it should get to 40 MPH.

hey by the way, does anybody know if a micro servo out of a mini revo would work with a 3 wire receiver, doing throttle duty?

[Maxx man]

should work... may be a lil slow though...

[OldSchoolRC]

Looks great man!!!! Awesome work

[roadrunnr43]

coming soon: tranny MK IV, and black wheels.

[roadrunnr43]

finally finished the transmission mount, 2-bolt main style.
6206
6207
and the black wheels. turned out very nice

[Maxx man]

sweet!!!!!!!! I need a vid!

[roadrunnr43]

assuming I can find 4 decent double-A's, I will attempt to start/run it out on the driveway tomorrow, wisconsin style. http://www.merrillicedrags.com/ (click on pictures.)

[roadrunnr43]

ok so. I got it to start, engine runs good, but the tranny gear slipped and the screw came loose, totally dumping the front driveshaft on the driveway. twice. didnt even move. fixed it up and will attempt again tomorrow.

[LSXEric]

The yoke? If so I've had 0 luck with them etheir. Get into a tiny bind, and bam it falls off.

Good luck and she's looking good. I just read through the whole ice drag racing site. 5.5's are crazy one asphalt let alone ice!

[roadrunnr43]

The yoke? If so I've had 0 luck with them etheir. Get into a tiny bind, and bam it falls off.

Good luck and she's looking good. I just read through the whole ice drag racing site. 5.5's are crazy one asphalt let alone ice!

the robinson gear is whats falling off now, power hasnt even gotten to the yoke yet. I have a feelin those are going to give me trouble too.

as for the ice. what you want is a narrow, low sidewall tire. narrow, so there is more weight per sq. in. of tire. and low profile because wrinkle-walls just dont work so great.

they've been doing it for 40 years. I gotta go see them sometime.

[roadrunnr43]

something else has come to my attention that needs addressing: brakes, or lack of them. I'll try putting something on the transmission.

[Maxx man]

hm... that may be helpfull lol

[roadrunnr43]

I had to re-read up on what you havent seen yet, which seems to be a lot.
brakes: rigged on the stuff from the nitro evader, works good, just need to get it go somewhere first
6415
shown here is what I did one boring afternoon when i was not worried about the cold an had to do something: switch mount, battery basket, reciever mount, new intake hose, and front body mount.
6414
what it looks like. as you can see, I cant close the deck lid with the gas tank there. looks like crap, sits a touch high, and doesnt run yet, but ya know, I'm kind of amazed i got this far.
6416

[roadrunnr43]

Yes, I do have problems keeping paint. this has to be the 4th iteration already.
my first thought when it came out of the can: "whoa, thats intense!"
6488
6489

as given away by the wires and fuel line, its still being re-assembled after painting everything.

[roadrunnr43]

home brewed fuel tank. 4" long, and 100% hand built. it was the most fun i've had in weeks.
6534
6535
6536
the last one looks funny inside cause its got soap water in it, trying to get out any leftover flux.

holds water pretty good, only place it kinda leaks is around the lid.

[piccofan]

thats a pretty intense project you have there!yiu should have a hood scoop! that would be so awesome! it would cool down your motor too but i just thought that it would look awesome

[LSXEric]

Man roadrunner how is she doing? We need an update on her!:)

[roadrunnr43]

absolutley nothing. its more disassembled now then when the pics were taken.

a few days ago I took the transmission out to work on the brakes. lost a drill bit tip in a hole, which halted progress. the sad part is, it only needed a glow starter and a plug to get running. all funds have been rerouted to aforementioned S10, but I'll try to work on it.

[roadrunnr43]

just got in from a test run. I disconnected the drive shaft so it wouldn't run away on me, and so I could tune it, and put the original fuel tank back on it.
oi.
the engine started easily enough, but the transmission puked itself out in the first 30 seconds. I need to loctite that. the front-left shock unscrewed itself too. not a problem since it wasn't going anywhere. anyway, the engine needs to be tuned in the worst way. it went through the whole tank in 2 minutes of run time at idle. I need to relearn how to tune. my fuel went straight to the driveway. its never had a decent air filter, so it should get one, and I think I'll ditch the primer bulb and see if that helps anything.

P.S. about 4 seconds before the tank is run dry, the engine runs revs up real high before it shuts down. my CEN does the same thing.does anybody else have the same thing?

[Fiero_Man_121]

yeah thats because it leans itself out (less fuel in the air/fuel ratio)

[OldSchoolRC]

It's technically not good for the engine to run lean at the end of the tank. You should shut the engine down before going completely empty.

Having said that, I run mine till they are dry most of the time anyway myself. :) So far nothing's blown up

[Fiero_Man_121]

So far nothing's blown up

well you just shot yourself in the foot didnt ya